Shanghai'S Dragon And Phoenix Cheongsam Inherits Chinese Culture

　　 Before the national day, "dragon phoenix" from Shanghai. cheongsam "Good news," the dragon and Phoenix button won the 2009 Best Exhibition of the China time honored brand.

In fact, the cheongsam we are familiar with today is quite different from the previous cheongsam of the Manchu nationality. The cheongsam, which shows the female body posture and draws the waist from the province, is derived from Shanghai after 1920s. In the future, it will become the national "heritage" of the cheongsam circle.

New cheongsam originated in Shanghai

Today, the cheongsam we are familiar with is originated from Shanghai's cheongsam. It is not like the Manchu Qipao that is wide and straight, and does not show its shape. Instead, it absorbs western style cutting methods, opens and saves waist, displays the female body curve, and evolves from the aristocratic gown to civilian fashion. In 1930s, the creation of Shanghai style cheongsam led the trend of the whole country. The dragon and Phoenix cheongsam still keeps the rhyme of the cheongsam of Shanghai style.

People in Jingan District Culture Bureau told reporters that the history of Longfeng Qipao can be traced back to the end of the Qing Dynasty, that is, around 1795. At that time, "suguang clothing shop", which specializes in Chinese clothing, was famous in Shanghai for its exquisite craftsmanship and Guangzhou's new style of dress. "Suzhou" By 1920s, the "Su Guang clothing shop" had spread to Shanghai, and there were more than 2000 at most, and 4 thousand garment makers.

Zhu Linqing, the first generation of the dragon and Phoenix cheongsam production technology, was born in suguang garment shop. In 1936, he founded the "Zhu Shunxing" Chinese clothing store, and applied traditional Chinese costume making skills to Shanghai style cheongsam. After liberation, Zhu Shunxing joined forces with four other Chinese clothing stores to establish "Shanghai dragon and Phoenix Chinese clothing store". It inherited the characteristics of "Su Guang clothing shop" and became the most famous handmade cheongsam shop in Shanghai.

Qipao is more like handicrafts.

The dragon and Phoenix cheongsam inherits the Su Guang which is on the verge of extinction. Ready-made clothes The traditional process of laying, embedding, rolling, dashing, rolling and embroidering. The selection of fabrics and patterns formed by hand carving, carving and embroidery, as well as the auspicious buttons, reflect the characteristics of Chinese traditional culture.

In particular, the process is very complex, and the requirements and accuracy of the production are relatively high. The buttons on a cheongsam often take a day or a few days to become one of the highlights of cheongsam. For example, when doing roll edge, according to the traditional craft characteristics, it is required to achieve the effect of "inch gold into nine beads", that is, one inch length has nine needles. This series of skills can be called stunt in the production of Chinese cheongsam. And use "carving, carving" and other stunts in velvet or other fabrics, hand carved, "dragon and Phoenix, Ruyi, bat, flowers," and other fine patterns, and then stitched on cheongsam or Chinese short coat, which makes cheongsam outside of the actual clothing, become a handicraft.

The Institute will open in the future.

Concerned people told reporters that although cheongsam has a unique flavor, but because of many processes and complex technology, now the traditional handcraft skills have been very few. In addition, the dragon and Phoenix cheongsam is hand-made. Although the clothing effect is excellent, but because of the high cost and high price, the market price of cheongsam has been affected to a great extent. Besides, modern simple costumes have gradually lost the market of traditional cheongsam, which embodies traditional national culture. All these become the biggest obstacles to the continued inheritance of cheongsam.

The Jingan District businessmen's official said that since May this year, Longfeng Qipao has opened a physical store on the old street in North Shaanxi Road as a platform for display. cheongsam A kind of support. The person in charge of the dragon and Phoenix cheongsam told reporters that the rent was only about 50% of normal. As long as there was a feasibility project, the government would also provide interest free loans and support the cost of training successors. In fact, the turnover of dragon and Phoenix cheongsam is between six and seventy thousand yuan a few months, which is far beyond the original expectation. In the near Nanjing West Road North Shaanxi Road and the foreign brand competition, let operators taste the sweetness: "80% of the customers are young white-collar workers, become the new strength of Shanghai style cheongsam culture." {page_break}

According to relevant sources, in the future, Longfeng Qipao will also open up a new learning facility for the cultivation of special venues for inheritors, with special successors to cultivate new forces in the form of a band, so that the production techniques of Longfeng Qipao can be passed down.